Sustainability column

Walking along the blue coast of South France, Yuan Qi came across an antique motorcycle jacket, and Cui Jian’s music just sounded in his ear, so the old memories of old Beijing were passed on in the texture and texture of second-hand clothes. The creative director and founder of BUERLANGMA (RYZYORYUAN) believes that the concept of circular wardrobe can give sustainable responsibility and feelings to the whole fashion industry chain.

He shared this view at the "Forces of Fashion". It is reported that since 2016, the event has been held in London, new york and other places, and it has become an annual event in the fashion industry that brings together creative pioneers, artistic talents, industry elites and cutting-edge topics. This year’s agenda and discussion have added sustainable issues.

The concept of sustainability implied by ancient culture just responds to the waste of fashion design industry. According to the data of China Resources Comprehensive Utilization Association, about 26 million tons of old clothes are discarded every year, which is expected to reach 50 million tons by 2030, with a recycling rate of less than 1%. According to the report of The New York Times, about 15%-20% of the cloth in the production process of clothing is wasted because it has not been "actuarial" and designed, and countless discarded fabrics are finally thrown into landfills.

In this grand event, besides exploring the resource recycling model, the discussion around "sustainable fashion" has also contributed more views from different dimensions. An obvious trend is that "sustainability" is becoming one of the important labels of the whole fashion design industry.

"The use of second-hand clothing can prolong the service life of clothing, reduce the burden of consumption purchase and production for the society to a certain extent, and contribute to the rational allocation of resources and environmental protection. It is a sustainable market circulation model." A researcher from the energy group of an international environmental protection organization told Wall Street that this model reduced the negative externalities caused by commodities to the environment.

According to what Wall Street has learned, second-hand clothing is divided into different value types according to factors such as time and usage, among which retro clothing is the most representative. Retro is to lead the new fashion through the elements of the old times, while retro clothing refers to the presentation of design elements in a certain historical period in today’s clothing products, full of nostalgia and classic style; At the same time, it also represents a generally recognized product concept, that is, fashionable products with a certain style produced during the 1920s to 1980s, which are called "Vintage" and "antique".

This natural integration of fashion style and sustainable concept provides a model worthy of reference for sustainable fashion. At present, the restoration of ecological resources has become a hot topic, and the meaning of sustainable clothing design as an effective strategy to solve this problem has also expanded to a deeper distance.

"Different from the traditional clothing development and production mode, sustainable clothing design not only pursues the aesthetics and comfort of clothing, but also takes the benign development of ecological environment as the most basic purpose, carries out scientific design practice from a systematic and long-term perspective, reduces a large number of energy and resource consumption caused by overproduction and over-packaging, reduces the generation and discharge of a large number of pollutants such as waste water and waste during production and transportation, and highlights the value connotation of ecological environment in all links." An insider who has been tracking and observing the green transformation of the fashion industry for a long time told Wall Street what he saw and heard at the scene.

According to Mackenzie’s "The Fashion on Climate" report, taking textiles as an example, at present, less than 1% of textile waste is recycled to make new products. Therefore, as far as the current market share is concerned, the proportion of fashion sustainable goods is still not high, and many brands still have a lot of room for improvement in the research and development and application of sustainable materials.

GFA organization pointed out that based on the continuous improvement and maturity of technologies such as recycling, the fashion industry should achieve 80% recycling of resources in 2030, which will require enterprises to focus on exploring the resource recycling model and increase investment in new technologies such as recycling technology. On-the-spot view also believes that the effective link of fashion, natural resources and environmental protection will be the key to realize this responsible vision.

The definition of fashion industry by the United Nations Sustainable Fashion Alliance includes the whole process from the extraction of raw materials to the end of the product life cycle, which also includes the recycling elements of material reuse, repair/reuse and recycling.

Redesign of existing waste fabrics, such as "fabric recycling", changes the original appearance of fabrics through artistic design techniques such as folding, folding, weaving, shrinking and stacking, giving them a unique texture and texture, and innovative design concepts of carbon neutrality, such as green chemistry, green synthesis and plastic recycling, have also appeared in this brainstorming of fashion.

At the grand event, from the contemporary design of China in MARKGONG’s futuristic fashion, which was mentioned by actor Chen Bige, to the minimalism of modernism aesthetics that influenced Proenza Schouler, and the concern about the situation of multi-groups caused by a photo, it was shown that fashion, as an aesthetic or trend in a specific period, designed life from multiple dimensions-how to shape self-image and lifestyle. What kind of work and social circle to choose, or even what kind of values to follow, are closely related to the leading power of fashion culture.

However, academic research has found that under the background of post-epidemic era, the concept of consumption has been remolded, and the concept of environmental protection and spiritual needs have become its important value shift. Modern people pursue higher emotional needs such as beauty and fashion, show their individuality and seek green environmental protection. The design with the label of "temperature and feelings" can arouse emotional resonance, and the design thinking has changed from traditional material-oriented to emotional-oriented, and the material design has gradually changed to service-oriented design.

Sustainable design is a thinking mode that considers economic, environmental, moral and social issues in a balanced way. It is intended to think about design itself, guide and meet consumer demand, and it is a practical process of deep thinking on the relationship between human development and environmental issues and continuous seeking for change in the design field, emphasizing the organic combination of "man-machine-environment".

According to the analysis of on-site industry insiders, after accurately focusing and subdividing the audience, it should be an important value orientation of sustainable fashion to build the context of their emotional needs, and convey the spiritual and cultural value connotation through sustainable design symbols.When the designer indirectly conveys the sustainable ideas and intentions such as environmental protection, recycling and low-carbon life to the audience through "redesign", consumers reach the design ideas conveyed by the designer by understanding the "story" behind them, which then causes emotional resonance and precipitates unique culture and brand symbols.

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